We have come to accept that vitamin C should be applied to the skin as the first active component every morning and that it should be utilised on a daily basis. And while this is generally true, there are some exceptions, according to dermo-cosmetic specialist Ana Santamarina, who claims that some vitamin C formulations have a longer shelf life and allow for remote application. Pure vitamin C has been observed to build up in cells and form a reservoir in the skin under specific circumstances. As long as vitamin C has specific properties, it would not be essential to utilise it daily because it can accumulate for up to 3 or 4 days.
How might vitamin C be formulated to eliminate the need for daily use?
Since this cannot be done with all formulations, this is the key issue. It must be a product containing 10-15% ascorbic acid and a pH of 3.5 or lower, according to the expert. This would allow it to stay in the tissues for up to 4 days, allowing for 3 or 4 uses per week. Nevertheless, we are discussing L-ascorbic acid at a specific range of percentages and pH (and which is not oxidised), which is the most bioavailable form, he adds.
In reality, a 15% ascorbic acid formulation with a pH of 3.2 had a half-life of roughly 4 days on the skin, according to the research Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies by Dr Sheldon R. Pinnell.
pH is also a factor, in addition to concentration
Experts speak of something higher than pH – experts speak of something higher than 8% and set the gold concentration at around 12%, but Santamarina brings to the table the other consideration that must be made when choosing: the pH. Up until this point, we have been discussing the gold concentration that a good vitamin C must have to be effective.
“Concentration is not always the most crucial factor, nor does it determine how bioavailable and potent an active component is. It is a collection of elements, including pH, and is very effectively shielded from the environment. Pure vitamin C’s fundamental flaw is that it is unstable. According to him, this can occur when exposed to air or light, as well as an alkaline pH.
Using it in conjunction with niacinamide has advantages
Therefore, if you select a vitamin C ampoule or serum with these formulation details (with 10-15% ascorbic acid at a pH of 3.5 or lower), you could use this active ingredient in place of other potent and advantageous skin-care components that also work to shield the skin from free radicals. Niacinamide is an option for days when vitamin C is not used. According to Santamarina, “It is an antioxidant and also improves skin tone.” Not to mention that it has excellent anti-inflammatory properties and is a universally applicable active ingredient.
Not everyone should take vitamin C
The truth is that there are other antioxidant formulas that can help in a similar way, despite the fact that it is one of the trendy ingredients whose ease of universal use we have normalised. “The good reputation of vitamin C is indeed justified, but it is true that I meet people for whom it is not the active ingredient that works best for them and they still insist.
You can certainly experiment with several formulae, but as I always advise them, “Perhaps this active is not for you, and we can look for another that is better suited to your skin,” claims Santamarina. In fact, her words remind me of those of facialist Andrea de Arajo, director of the centre Sybarite Beauty & Medical Experts, who previously stressed the need for me to avoid becoming fixated on the use of vitamin C because there are other options available and because it causes a slight exfoliation that can refine the skin if it is not moisturised and protected afterwards. One option is hypericum extract, which is made from the plant’s antioxidant-rich leaves, which also moisturise and repair skin. De Araujo added that witch hazel extract has tannins and flavonoids to preserve the skin.
When—morning or evening?
Although applying vitamin C in the morning is convenient, the expert does not disallow using it in the evening or twice (morning and night). It is a fantastic antioxidant that can absorb the harm that UV rays do to the skin in the morning. For instance, it has been observed that 15% ascorbic acid combined with vitamin E significantly minimises the appearance of sunburn.
Additionally, vitamin C can shield the skin from smog. And because it has been demonstrated to aid in healing, I would advise utilising a fractional laser twice daily if you have had one.
When to throw out a vitamin C
Without a doubt, vitamin C’s stability is a major issue, as it can readily oxidise under the influence of outside forces if its formulation is not sufficiently stable. According to him, vitamin C oxidises when it turns orange, and once it goes brown, it should be thrown away.
How old must you be before consuming vitamin C?
In general, Santamarina notes, “from the age of 25 on it would be beneficial to use it as this is when the enzymes that degrade collagen begin to proliferate and a good vitamin C helps us to stimulate the synthesis of this,” even though it should be noted that the chronological age (the one that appears on the ID card) does not always correspond to the biological one.
